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A Closer Look at Spain’s Garnacha Wines from Aragon

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The Aragon region of Spain is filled with castles, cathedrals, monasteries, and UNESCO world heritage sites dotting the Pyrenees foothills, desert plains, fertile deltas, and the bustling city of Zaragoza. In addition to being a major cultural and agricultural powerhouse, Aragon’s vineyards are renowned not only for their Tempranillo but for their venerated Garnacha’s increasing popularity.

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This is the land where Garnacha cultivation began in Roman times yet was under siege by market forces until the 1990s when Aragon vineyards banded together forming the 5 Designations of Origin (DOs) of Somontano, Campo de Borja, Carinena, Calatayud, and Terra Alta. Sick and tired of watching French vintners growing their namesake heritage grapes for prestigious labels like Gigondas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and Vacqueyras, they developed a plan to reclaim their heritage.

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First D.O. members had to resist the temptation to uproot their gnarled heritage vines ranging in age from 40 – +100 years that each yielded on average a measly 2 pounds of grapes. This was particularly challenging since farmers were being offered EU subsidies to rip them out to raise more profitable crops like almonds, olives, avocados, and other more market-oriented grapes.

Next, D.O. members determined that many of the inferiorities plaguing their Garnachas like quick oxidation and mediocre flavors resulted from their grapes being a commodity rather than specialty heirlooms showcasing their unique richly concentrated expressions.

Most importantly, winery owners needed to rediscover and capitalize on what actually makes Aragon’s terroir the most difficult yet commensurately rewarding. Soils here are unforgiving and difficult to cultivate littered with chunks of slate or carpeted in round stones. But it is through this adversity that stressed vine roots reach deeper into the mineral rich detritus year after year for scarce yet vital moisture.

And so it is that a new generation of winemakers are now adopting modern cultivation techniques, experimenting with fermentation, and improving barrel selections while reconnecting with ancient practices like preserving old vines, as well as hand harvesting and sorting. Many of these Garnacha varietals are now unblended standing on their own from the following Aragon Denominations of Origin with distinct character and flavor expressions:

Calatayud Located a little over 55 miles southwest of Zaragoza, the name Calatayud is derived from Qalat (the Arabic word for castle) and Ayub (name of a fabled Moorish governor). Established in 1990, wineries here have adopted the latest in weather data tracking and GPS mapping technology to determine the best grapes based on color, structure, minerality and ageability. A mix of privately owned vineyards as well as cooperatives, Calatayud wineries are now turning heads with some unique Garnacha labels like Punta y Coma and Las Rocas de San Alejandro.

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Extreme weather conditions and patchworks of rusty red and yellowish clay sands, sometimes evident in the same vineyard due to the erratic nature of glacial deposits thousands of years ago.  The south facing foothills just over 3,000 feet above sea level on the Moncayo range provide an extra special growing environment overlooking the River Ebro.

Watered by a complex hydro geological network of various tributaries like the Jalon and Jiloca that feed the River Ebro, over 55% of red wine production here is from vines more than 50 years old. Weather that’s dry and windy with threats of frost during autumn produces sweet velveteen ripeness prominently figuring in 100% Garnachas from Altovinium and Bodegas y Vinedos del Jalon Alto Las Pizarras Collection.

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Campo de Borja – Viticulture has monastic roots here dating back to 1145. Established in 1980, today this D.O. is best known for rich and intensely fruity reds as well as rosados (rosés) blended with Macabeo and Chardonnay. The small percentage of Garnacha whites they do produce are refreshingly light with delicate floral aromas. Almost half of their 12,355 acres of their Garnacha-producing vines are between 30 and 50 years old.

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Farmer-owned cooperative wineries play a key role here promoting excellent quality and availability. Altitude and climate shapes the dramatic extremes of long hot summers and cold winters tempered by the Ebro River and Dry Ciero winds. Growing in sandy earth over limestone and ferrous clay that’s stony and well drained translate into a powerfully elegant tasting experience.

Lately, Campo de Borja has been turning heads for easy-drinking Garnachas like Centenaria’s Coto de Hayas and their more concentrated, new French oaked Fagus with a minerality that enables structural and aromatic complexity.

The Campo de Borja Wine Museum in the Cistercian Monastery of Veruela makes a great starting point for exploring this D.O.’s 8 centuries of wine making. Following their wine route exposes you to well established vineyards as well as small family-run wine presses and historical wine cellars. Along the way, you’re sure to revel in Romanesque cathedrals and monasteries as well as the distinct Modejo Arabic brickwork and glazed ceramic tiling most prominently evident on bell towers and village squares dotting the region.

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Cariñena – Although the region’s namesake Carinena grape is still planted in close to 55% of the vineyards here, Garnacha has lately surpassed it in popularity.  Established in 1932, Carinena is the oldest, largest, and most diverse D.O. in the Aragon region with vineyards ranging from ­family-owned plots to quality-­obsessed cooperatives.

Varying elevations produce dramatic swings in temperature promoting even ripening and flavor development. Soils are defined by 4 types of Miocine clay, the most common being iron laced rusty limestone, and bleached-out white from slate and granite layered on rocky subsoils. Throughout the vineyards, chunks of broken rock and multicolored stones shape the minerality that produces crisp, fruit-forward rosé sans the malolactic fermentation made by Paniza’s, as well as dense and powerful reds that undergo carbonic maceration unencumbered by harsh tannins like Beso de Vino.

Unlike the other D.O.s, winemaking is the primary industry in Carinena making it number 6 in export volume among all of Spain’s wine regions. This high volume has actually yielded better quality production.

Following their 42 kilometer Ruta de Vino is the best way to experience the wide range of Carinena Garnacha vineyards dotting the Ebro Valley with the spectacular Sierra de Algairén mountain range as a backdrop.

Somontano – “Under the mountains” as translated and situated about 35 miles south of the French border, Somontano is the northeastern-most D.O. established in 1984. Vineyards are situated on foothills of the central Pyrenees, where high elevations and extreme temperature fluctuations along with reddish soils packed with sandstone and clay help vines retain higher acidity.

Warm days and cool nights prevail thanks to the Pyrenees mountains blocking northerly winds. As may be expected due to geographic proximity, Somontano Garnachas most closely resemble those from France with lower alcohol, freshness, and salinity.

Both red and white Somontano Garnachas like those produced by Pirineos and La Miranda de Secastilla are elegant with a complex intensity. Red plum and cherry fruit is matched with vanilla and toasty oak of new barrels. Secondary flavors figuring prominently on the palate include chocolate, licorice, coffee, spice, herbs, and black olive.

The Somontano’s Wine Route takes the hassle out of not only exploring the more than 30 vineyards here but also highlights its unprecedented natural beauty and wide range of first-rate artistic and cultural heritage. Cave paintings, Medieval towns, Romanesque chapels, Gothic churches, Baroque temples, and ancient fortifications await exploration.

In Babastro, The Tourist Information Center doubles as D.O. Somontano headquarters featuring interactive displays and a Wine Space with a cutting-edge tasting room.

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Terra Alta – Literally translated as “high land”, this D.O.’s wine production took root during Roman times but first legal documentation dates back to Las Costums d’Orta from 1296 and Las Costums de Miravet in 1319. Due to its geographical isolation, wines were only made for local consumption up until recently.

Many vineyards look out over the River Ebre and Tarragona below, a scene that once inspired a young Pablo Picasso. Pre-coastal limestone mountain ranges, holm oak & white pine trees, and soil worked for centuries with almond and olive groves make it equally inspiring for Garnacha.

Vineyards are concentrated on plateaus and the valley floor benefiting from abundant sunshine as well as convergent winds bringing cold from the north and humidity from the south with severe cold and a danger of late frosts in the spring.

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Promoting white Garnachas, to this day only accounting for a fraction of Spain’s total Garnacha output, cooperatives flourished here starting in the 1920s with an oxidized “amber blanc.” It wasn’t until establishing their D.O. in 1984, that longstanding cooperatives began cultivating both native and international varietals.

The Terra Alta now produces 30% of the world’s Garnacha, 100% of which are monovarietals displaying unique punctuations of juicy acidity, creamy texture, and bright flavors particularly in Clos Dalian’s Crianza and Blanca. Minerality derived from the terroir’s chalky limestone belies citrus, peach, lemon, and honeysuckle. Reds like Cellar Batea’s Tipicitat exude a mineral streak with a concentration of raspberry and cherry fruit.

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored trip.


Wines of Bourgogne More Affordable Than You Think

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Hilly terrain running roughly 37 miles from Dijon to Santenay in the Borgogne region of France defines a patchwork of more than 1000 climats (microclimates) producing a wide variety of mostly Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. The sheer diversity of terroir and wines often make understanding the region daunting. The popularity of their renowned Grand Cru A.O.P. also gives many the perception that Borgogne wines are pricy but in reality, 52 % of wines from this region are Regional A.O.P.s representing great value with many bottles falling below $40. Here are some exemplary vintages that provide an excellent way to get a taste of Bourgogne’s  rich and diverse terroir:

Domaine Parent, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, 2014

 

Located in the heart of Côte d’Or in Pommard, Domaine Parent’s winemaking heritage dates back to 1787 when founder Etienne Parent collaborated with Thomas Jefferson who was fast becoming an exporter of Burgundy across the Atlantic before becoming the 3rd President of the United States. Considerably later on in the 1950s, Domaine Parent was one of the first Côte d’Or estates to sell all its production in bottles allowing them to extend their global reach and local popularity.

Now in its 12th generation, sisters Anne and Catherine Parent have been running the family estate since 1998 preserving older traditions like hand harvesting to protect the grapes’ delicate ripeness followed by 6 to 8 workers at a sorting table selecting the best grapes. At the same time, they have also embraced new initiatives like restoring their soils to sustainable levels thanks to their 2013 organic certification.

After pressing, wines are gravity fed into French oak barrels for 14-18 months maturation. According to Anne Parent, “Since we use biodynamic cultivation, we use a lunar calendar which is set each year and base all our work on it from vineyard to cellar. For example, we mainly bottle on fruit days, by waning moon, because it preserves the fruit and aromatic qualities of the wine. Despite the additional investments of time and equipment, the challenges of working organically and using biodynamic cultivation is worth it since we are in tune with nature’s cycle bringing us closer to the soils and vines.”

Soils of Marl with Dolomite limestone and red clays define the power and elegance of this signature 2014 vintage. You get a distinctively clean and clear clove and spicy berry melange on the palate with a deep red velvety stone fruit and raspberry on the mouth feel. Noticeably bright and airy rather than subdued, its slight blueberry tartness provides enough nuances to equally pair well with fish and BBQ.

 

Catherine et Claude Marechal, Chorey-les-Beaune, 2013

 

Extending from the river Saône to the ridge of hills that give Côte d’Or its namesake, winemaker Claude Maréchal’s vineyards are situated on a flat plain that’s also well known for producing grains and produce. Maréchal’s father began the business as a cereal farmer with a few vineyard holdings in Bligny-les-Beaune, where Maréchal now resides making his wines.

Claude’s growing principles keep things straightforward and simple like using no herbicides and severely pruning to keep yields low. Vinification is done in open wooden vats, grapes are fully  destemmed, and fermentation is not induced by adding yeast, so it can take a few days to start the naturally cold pre-maceration. New wood barrels are added every year, but the  proportion of wine Marechal ages in them stays low so as not to over-oak his stock.

 

Made from 30 year old Pinot Noir vines, grapes are harvested and sorted by hand, undergo cold maceration for about 4 days with twice daily crushes and total fermentation on skins 12 to 14 days. The finished product is oak aged for a year and then bottled onsite yielding a fine, bright red with an eloquent, fruity bouquet with hints of cherry.  Light tannins makes this vintage mellow drinking with a brambleberry patina across the palate. You get a definitive yet mild minerality allowing the fruit to shine through exuding a delicate bouquet with light fruit and spice with just enough acidity for cleansing the palate.

 

Maison Parigot & Richard, Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé, 100% Pinot Noir

 

This Cuvée Rosé from the Crémant de Bourgogne is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes grown in Côtes de Beaune, Côtes de Nuits and Haute-Côtes de Beaune. Soil is a clay limestone that’s regularly plowed without chemical herbicides.  Vines range in age from 20-50 years.  Grapes are pneumatically pressed, fermented in stainless steel, and aged on lees for 18-30 months. This careful attention to production translates into a salmon-hued bubbly Cremant that has an extremely playful mouth feel with brisk floral notes and sweet yet bracing berry and stone fruit.

 

Domaine Bart, Marsannay Les Champs Salomon, 2014

 

From the Marsannay appellation, considered the gateway to the Côte de Nuits Villages region,

Les Champs Salomon’s hillside vineyards are situated at altitudes ranging from 92 to 1033 feet above sea level. Soils are above a fault line in Crinoidal limestone overlain by colluvial silt full of stones. This results in a wine that has a dense, bright shimmering ruby hue expressing the typical characteristics of Pinot Noir in purity and freshness. The nose is immediately open, evoking cherry, with an exquisite touch of white pepper showcasing a persistently elegant minerality. On the palate, the viscosity is very alert and vibrant with fresh tannins highlighting a silky texture and pleasant salinity on the finish.

 

Domaine Prieur-Brunet, Santenay Le Foulot, 2013

 

Although it’s commonly known that Pinot Noir grapes produce white juice despite their black skins, cold maceration used to produce this varietal allows the color to spread from the skin to the juice. Fermentation takes place in open oak vats and if necessary, white fresh eggs are used to naturally clarify without filtering. Domaine Prieur-Brunet’s vast domain on the Coast of Beaune produces a tightly wound melange of spice and black fruit with a citrusy plum on the nose.  Its light-hued pallor belies a delicate tasting experience with an abundance of acidity standing up to tough ingredients with personality like Gorganzola and other sharp cheeses, root vegetables, and hearty meats like BBQ and charred steaks.  Its definitive minerality accentuates and magnifies hot pepper and spicy sauces.  Pairing with chocolate enlivens its red berry splendor due to its mellow astringency.  A full bodied rich fruitiness that crescendos across the palate is the direct result of no filtration.

 

Albert Bichot, Fixin 2011

 

Fixin (pronounced Fissin) is a subregion of the Cote de Nuits Villages appellation in between Dijon and Gevrey Chambertin. Vineyards here are rich in clay, limestone, and orientated east-southeast creating the perfect terroir for this very particular varietal. Featuring a stunning ruby red hue, this wine has a delicate nose exuding subtle notes of honeysuckle complemented by a crisp oakiness striking a harmonious balance and a persistent finish of light spicy notes.  The mouth feel has a complexity that runs deep with a zingy yeast exuding plenty of character and texture of rich spice and biting fruit. Overall, a regal flavor experience with an electrifying fruitiness.

 

Port Jefferson Long Island’s Danfords Hotel & Marina

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Situated in the heart of historic Port Jefferson Village on the waterfront right next to the Bridgeport/Port Jefferson ferry dock, Danfords Hotel & Marina blends modern luxury with a rich local history. The site of this luxury resort dates all the way back to 1870 when it housed a blacksmith shop, boxing emporium, social club, ice cream parlor, painter’s studio, and gift shop before the Hurricane of 1938 demolished most of it including the original foundation.

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Fast forward to 1986 when the hotel was completely rebuilt into the 86-room boutique property with the contemporary design and layout you experience today.  After being fully refurbished in 2008, Danfords Hotel & Marina added and upgraded amenities like Wave Seafood Kitchen & Lounge accompanied by gourmet catering facilities, a full service marina, and Butterfly Salon & Spa completely transforming it into a destination ideal for vacation getaways as well as weddings and conferences overlooking the harbor and Long Island Sound in the distance.

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Danfords’ artful juxtaposition of historic character inlaid with modern comforts is readily apparent as soon as you enter the lobby for check-in. The front desk is opulently crafted with carved wood trim painted in white along with wood plank flooring under foot. The color scheme is bright and nautically themed anchored with a gas fireplace surrounded by plenty of plush seating clustered throughout.  To one side, a doorway opens up into Wave Seafood Kitchen & Lounge while to your right, a wide wooden staircase with an ornate banister leads to Presidential and Tower Suites as well as the Brookhaven Room event space upstairs.

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The overall design evokes an airy yet cozy ambiance steeped in history. Step outside and brick walkways interconnect the property’s 10 other buildings including over 12,000-square-feet of meeting space featuring a  newly renovated ballroom with panoramic ocean views  as well as  rooms featuring a wide variety of sizes and amenities.

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Interior decor throughout is themed around nautically inspired accents and artwork showcasing marine artifacts as well as tall ships and their exuberant sails. Some rooms include balconies with waterfront views and fireplaces while the seaside theme is carried over into most bathrooms with stone surfaces, luxury hardware, and well appointed spa-inspired showers with built-in seats and glass enclosures.

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Chef Jeff Bunbury at Wave Seafood Kitchen & Lounge applies farm to table sensibilities to his menus prominently showcasing fresh local produce and seafood with dishes like Charred Octopus served with mussels, chorizo, and herbed Arborio rice or Pan Seared scallops with asparagus puree, Spatzle, and freshly harvested mushrooms. The restaurant’s name is inspired by the panoramic water views visible from every table. Their 40-seat lounge/dining area is also defined by white baby grand piano and a gallery of photographic seascapes making for perfect oceanfront dining especially during summer when the outdoor dockside deck opens to offer al fresco dining.

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What makes this property truly unique is their full service 75-slip marina accommodating short and long term stays for boats up to 280-feet long. Many conveniences include refueling and shower facilities, water, electrical, and cable hook-ups, and slip-side food and beverage services. They even have a full-time Dock-Master at the ready to make special arrangements and plan on shore itineraries for boaters.

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On land, you are several blocks walking distance to vibrant walk able downtown Port Jeff with plenty of eateries and galleries to pick from. If you brought your car, you may have the extra hassle of parking and navigating traffic particularly during summer but your access to infinitely more activities extends your reach to miles of beach walking at nearby McAllister County Park as well as other nearby attractions like Splish Splash Water Park, Atlantis Marine World, bike paths, and golf courses.  A bit further afield lie the Hamptons and North Fork wineries.

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky and Danfords Hotel & Marina

The Widest Diversity of French Wines Come From Rousillion

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Surrounded by mountains and numerous topographical features resulting from a turbulent geological past, France’s Roussillon wine region is cradled in a massive amphitheater-like bowl nestled in the South of France between Spain, the Mediterranean Sea, and narrow valleys spidering outward among the Pyrenees and Corbières Mountains.

Distinct micro climates, many of which have earned their own AOP certification, receive more than 320 days of sunshine per year balanced by heavy autumn rains. Combine this with soils defined by clay, limestone, schist, and gravel and you get the perfect array of terroirs seemingly custom made for the more than 23 different Roussillon grape varieties to reach their optimal potential.

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The best part is when winemakers get their hands on the juice crafting a bevy of elegant wines. Capitalizing on this unique patchwork of micro-terroirs, Roussillon’s small community of 2,200 winemaker families, 25 cooperative cellars, and 345 private wineries produce everything from dry still wines and Vins Doux Naturels (Fortified Sweet Wines) to the classic dry reds & rosés representing 87% of the region’s exports.domainelatourvielle

Apparently, many of us are appreciating the value that comes from a diversity of terroirs, low-yielding, vines and strictly adhered to organic viticulture.  The Roussillon’s top quality bold reds that have experienced a whopping 177% increase in export volume to the USA since 2010.

Domaine La Tour Vieille, Collioure Rouge La Pinede 2014

Vineyards producing the grapes in this 75 % black Grenache 25 % Carignan blend are situated on slopes in Pyrénées foothills just as they plunge towards the Mediterranean Sea. Manual harvesting and treading of grapes that Domaine La Tour Vieille sources noticeably impacts this velvety supple vintage. Entirely aged in concrete vats and bottled following harvesting in June, you get a rich cinnamon and plum on the mouth feel while black currant and cloves burst forth on the palate. Powerful tannins and minerality partner up just right to deliver a sharp spicy kick to the back of the throat spreading out across the mouth defining an intense character. Pairs wonderfully with fish dishes but also promises to cellar well evolving in boldness and structure over the coming years.

Château Saint Roch, Maury Sec 2014

It’s a common misconception to automatically associate fortified sweet wines with the Maury appellation. The truth is that dry reds full of character like this Chateau Saint-Roch cuvée Kerbuccio are just as common. Black schist and marl soils set up an ideal growing substrate for this 60% Grenache Noir, 20% Syrah, and 20% Mourvèdre blend made with manually harvested grapes. 30% of the wine is aged in 500 litre barrels for 6 to 9 months while the rest is aged in full concrete vats. Smoky on the nose, a deep dark rich berry with depth strongly reveals dark chocolate and tobacco on the palate. Bracing tannins give it well defined structure deeply penetrating to the core of the mouth feel while an electrifying astringency showcases the more finely tuned aspects of this bolder wine.bila-haut

M. Chapoutier- Domaine de Bila-Haut, Côtes du Roussillon Villages L’Esquerda 2013

In Catalan, L’Esquerda means “the fault in the rock” and is the case with this Côtes du Roussillon Villages, takes you to the core of Roussillon’s granitic soils by simply taking a sip. Vineyards in plateaus and hills 350m above sea level fueled by granite sand limestone soils yield a unique tasting experience with this Syrah, Grenache, Carignan blend with 10% aged in oak while the other 90% in concrete tanks. Astringency out front displays chocolate and complex berry while its multi-layered complexity makes it pair well with a wide variety of cooking styles and ingredients like salt, char, roasted vegetables, and cheeses. Consistent across the palate, when paired with foods empowers and accentuates many ingredients like a magical gravy creating a delightfully well rounded flavor experience.hechtbannier

Hecht & Bannier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2011

Hecht & Bannier owners Gregory and Francois personally visit the appellations each year testing out wines for their blends ultimately selecting grapes from both cooperatives and individual highly esteemed Domaines. Not being tied by contract to any producer gives them the freedom to source from terriors that best suit their winemaking objectives including certified organic fuit when possible.

This mightily diverse Cotes du Roussillon blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Mourvèdre, and Lledoner Pelut is shaped by a 3-way aging process of 30% in concrete vats, 40% in demi-muid (500 liter barrels), and 30% in oak barrels. With an intense ruby hue, this wine exhibits a dense mouth feel with tannins balancing a black berry fruity spiciness. A dark presence permeates the overall flavor experience with spicy grape, chocolate, and tobacco notes that linger all the way to the finish.

Photos courtesy of Wines of Roussillon & Steve Mirsky. Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored tasting.

Hot Sauce Nation: America’s Burning Obsession

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hotsaucenationBuffalo wings are now a staple American dish, bottles of Tabasco and Sriracha sit nestled between salt & pepper on countless restaurant tables across the country, and BBQ sauce seemingly gets hotter by the year. Our love affair with capsaicin, the chemical compound that makes peppers hot, is obviously growing but how did it all begin and what’s fueling its meteoric rise?

Hot Sauce Nation: America’s Burning Obsession written by Denver Hicks & released just several months ago provides an in depth examination of how something that causes so much pain is loved by so many of us.

Hicks traces the likely history of the chili pepper from its origins in a small area in Bolivia to its introduction to Europe and the rest of the world by way of Christopher Columbus. Before Columbus set sail for India in 1492, oriental food wasn’t spicy and the Hungarians didn’t have their prized paprika. “The Indians got chilies through European colonialism. The slave trade helped bring spicy foods into the United States. Even in Mexico, where chilies have been a key mole ingredient for millennia, originally came from Asia. If this didn’t happen, the world would certainly be a blander place,” says Hicks.

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Hicks’s accounts also serve as a meditative travelogue with his on-site visits to the Land of the Seven Moles aka Oaxaca Mexico; Houston, epicenter of hot-sauce laden Tex-Mex food; and Avery Island, Louisiana, the home of Tabasco sauce producer McIlhenney Company. Vicariously visit and experience  the Chipotle infused hot chocolate at Annie Rupani’s Cacao & Cardamom chocolate shop in Houston, and the Spice Cream from Bonfatto’s in Bellafonte Pennsylvania.

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Although crediting Sriracha with igniting today’s artisanal hot sauce boom, Hicks is quick to point out its heavy sugar content in comparison to the more mainstream Tabasco sauce that’s simply made with chilies, salt, and vinegar. “Right now, the two hottest peppers used in sauces are the Carolina Reaper and Ghost Peppers.”

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Philosophy and scientific inquiry also figure prominently in Nick’s narrative exploring hot sauce’s appeal. In addition to the technical side of endorphin heavy neurochemical reactions,  the philosophy of Nietzche guides the plausibility of why eating a 3.3 million Scoville unit scorpion pepper (about 650 times hotter than Tabasco) in any way approaches a pleasurable experience.

Coverage resulting from reading a complimentary review copy

Walla Walla Wines

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An oasis amid the vast sagebrush desert that rolls across much of America’s northwest interior, Walla Walla’s longstanding appeal to those seeking a better life ranging from Native tribes and French fur trappers to farmers and vintners is most notably evident in the literal translation of its name (“many waters”).  The Walla Walla Valley‘s rivers and aquifers that have fed the region’s agricultural bounty for generations now also provide perfect growing for more than 100 wineries that source grapes from nearly 2,000 acres of local vineyard plots.

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In addition to water, Walla Walla, like other distinctive wine regions, is shaped by the extremes of a unique topography and terrior. Straddling state lines with two-thirds of its wine growing appellation in Washington and the other third in Oregon, elevations range from 400 to 2,000 feet above sea level.  Similarly, annual rainfall triples from a sparse 7 inches at the western end of the valley to a lush 22 inches among the foothills of the Blue Mountains to the east.wallawallaloess

A unique mosaic of soils carpeting the appellation can be roughly divided into 4 major categories.  At the lowest elevations, dark basalt river gravel stones blanket fields absorbing the sun’s warmth by day and then release it at night into vines growing in well-drained iron rich soils. Fine, wind-blown silt called Loess is the next type that extends 2-4 feet deep in areas below 1,100 feet in elevation.  Beneath the Loess are coarser layers of sand and gravel deposited by glacial floods that swept through the region about 15,000 years ago.

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In the uplands above 1,100 feet, fine powdery dirt that’s more than 8-10 feet deep constitutes Walla Walla’s 3rd soil type.  Vines planted here send their roots far below producing grapes with pure, bright aromatics and flavors.  The final soil category mostly found on steep, southwest-facing hillsides consists of several inches of very fine, wind-blown soil over ancient volcanic bedrock.

Capitalizing on these growing conditions, here’s a taste of what you can expect from 2 signature Walla Walla wineries:

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Amavi Cellars

Amavi Cellars’ name signifies love (amor) and life (vita) and it shows in their wines made from 100% estate, certified sustainable Walla Walla Valley grapes. Located in the heart of Walla Walla wineamavibottles2 country, their winery & tasting room offers sweeping views of surrounding Pepper Bridge Vineyard with the Blue Mountains in the distance. The following varietals are a great example of Amavi’s dedication to producing wines that showcase the region’s distinct personality:

2015 SemillonTheir 2015 growing season marked the latest in a trend of being the warmest on record with the last week of June experiencing the highest temperatures. Record-breaking heat yielded to cooler days and nights just in time for veraison allowing grapes to ideally develop a richly structured character. Actually a blend of 88% Sémillon and 12% Sauvignon Blanc, you get decisive mango on the nose and palate with a fruitiness that’s far from overly cloying thanks to aging in 100% neutral French Oak. A uniquely aromatic bouquet is balanced by more bracing stone fruit providing a refreshing monster flavor experience. While brightly acidic, the mouth feel is surprisingly silky.

2013 SyrahA temperate spring for this year yielded typical Walla Walla Valley mid-April bud break. Warm summer days continued into fall combined with cool nights set the conditions just right for developing Walla Walla’s trademark acidity. This vintage is beautifully structured, ripe, and expressive with peppery dry pineyness poking through on the palate. Clarity on the first sip with complexity building thanks to brambleberry figuring prominently on the mouth feel along with elegant acidity, complex tannins, and a lengthy finish. A touch (4%) of Grenache kicks in some berry and plum notes while aging in 86% neutral and 14% new oak barrels defines its elegant finish.

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pepperbridgebottlesPepper Bridge Winery

Being one of the first wineries established in the Valley, Pepper Bridge best exemplifies Walla Walla’s pioneering spirit. Currently owned and operated by the McKibbens, Goffs, and Pellets, 3 families that have made big investments in wine making technology and vineyard management at Pepper Bridge over the last 20 years, have also lead the appellation into the distinguished category of world class wine production. The following wines superbly demonstrate Pepper Bridge’s core principles of crafting elegant yet balanced estate wines:

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Despite the straightforward labeling, this here is a super blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 4% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Deliciously pure and supple, this vintage is made with certified sustainable and Salmon Safe vineyard practices. Rich sweet fruit displays prominently across the palate. Mellow tannins and oak aging for 19 months in roughly equal proportions of new and neutral barrels moderate it just enough to maintain a kick to the palate. An indulgent peppery punchy mouth feel is layered with currant, chocolate and hints of tobacco.

2013 Trine The word ‘trine’ (rhymes with ‘wine’) is defined as a close group of three, and in this case pays homage to the McKibbens, Goffs, and Pellets. Winemaker Jean-François Pellet let loose with his creativity on this vintage in a creative blend of Bordeaux’s traditional five red grapes (37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot, 9% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot) rather being locked into a varietal-specific purgatory. Zingy berry pokes through with a slight salinity on the palate. Bold yet sophisticated in exerting its complexity, this wine is centered on a rich core of ripe Bing cherry, dried herbs, and rose petal that showcases the magic of Cabernet Franc as its primary component. Sipping this one rewards you with elegant balance and a long satisfying finish.

Photos courtesy of Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance, Amavi Cellars, Pepper Bridge Winery, & Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored tasting.

Heading Down Under for New Zealand Wines

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New Zealand is home to some of the world’s most beautiful landscapes…rugged mountain ranges, lush rainforests, and tranquil coastlines. What you may not know is that New Zealand’s unique terroir yields crisp, vibrant, and lively wines reflecting the very essence of this island country. Recent harvests were not only markedly bountiful (34% above usual yields) but grapes were exceptionally high-quality. Small estate wineries like Catalina Sounds, Crowded House, and Nanny Goat were direct beneficiaries of this good fortune and took advantage of exceptional fruit to craft the following tasty lineup:

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Crowded House Sauvignon Blanc 2015

The name Crowded House represents New Zealand’s crowded yet unique Marlborough wine growing region as well as Crowded House Winery‘s mission to stand out in a crowded world of wine. Winemaker Peter Jackson’s philosophy is to keep it simple sourcing top quality grapes from local vineyards. “I believe the most critical decision a winemaker makes is deciding when to pick. Once harvested, my role is to simply steer the fruit in the right direction in order to best express the vibrant fruit flavors that Marlborough is renowned for while respecting subtle differences as well”, says Jackson.Crowed House Sauv Blanc 2015 Ft UK

The impact of summer drought that hit Marlborough in the summer of 2015 resulted in low crop yields but also grapes with excellent concentration and flavor. Specifically sourced from vineyards in the Wairau Valley and Southern Valleys sub regions, bright and focused aromas of guava, citrus, black currant, and sweet crushed herbs figure prominently on the nose while a solid minerality keeps the fruitiness at bay. A soft acidity with tart citrus lingers on the palate with well balanced astringency carrying the fruit flavors to a long pure finish. Equally enjoyable paired or on its own.

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Catalina Sounds Sauvignon Blanc 2015

Inspired by the majestic Catalina amphibious flying boats that played a vital role across the South Pacific during and after World War II, Catalina Sounds Winery wanted to evoke a lofty New Zealand historical icon in its branding. In fact, the winery helps sponsor the maintenance and display of several originals for posterity.

In the spirit of revering the majestic grace of this plane as it once flew over Marlborough Sounds, Catalina Sounds Winery‘s production steps outside the norm to showcase the purity and vibrancy that the region’s climate and landscape are naturally blessed with.

Drought conditions again produced low yields but excellent flavor concentration. Sourced predominantly from their Sound of White vineyard in Marlborough’s Waihopai Valley, this vintage showcases a restrained yet powerful aromatic mix of herbal notes complemented by a well balanced minerality giving structure to the fruit. Tart apple and sweet fruit meet their match in this palate pleaser that’s astringent on the finish. Makes a notable golden flourish in the glass while swirling.

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Catalina Sounds Pinot Noir 2015

This Pinot blends 55% of its fruit from Sound of White vineyard and the remainder from Omaka Valley’s Clayridge Vineyard. Fruit for this one is hand-harvested and de-stemmed into open fermenters. ‘Hot barrel ferments’ are then drained into new French oak barriques producing an essence of savory char.

“Our growing season was dry, warm, and long, without excessive heat making it ideal for elegant flavor development while retaining natural acidity,” says winemaker Peter Jackson. “Once harvested, the parcels were gently handled and really left to themselves to express each vineyard site as clearly and as naturally as possible. 10 months of oak aging afforded the wine time to soften and integrate prior to blending and bottling.”

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You get a classic Pinot balance of oaky stone fruit on the nose. Its deep garnet red has an enticing mix of red and dark berry fruits rising to the forefront with gentle dried herb notes in the background, soft lingering tannins, and a rich well defined bramble berry with mild spiciness and a slightly salty touch evoking Marlborough Sounds surf and breezes.

Nanny Goat Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014

Named after the nimble and sure footed wild goats that roam the mountainous terrain of Central Otago, Nanny Goat Vineyard‘s mission reflects their determination to adapt and thrive in the rugged terrain and extreme climates that shape the vineyards’ terroir.

Nanny Goat Pinot Noir 2015 Ft

Winemaker Alan Peters-Oswald sources grapes from New Zealand’s Central Otago region giving this lightly oaked Pinot a deep ruby with a youthful purple hue on the rim. Numerous small parcels of fruit were hand harvested and then fermented using indigenous yeast with the cap plunged three times daily at its peak ensuring gentle extraction of color and tannin. 20% of the 10 month oak maturation takes place in new French oak barriques with the remainder in 1-5 year old.

You are greeted on the nose with suggestions of bramble and spice, gradually opening up to reveal more subtle floral notes complemented by mellow tannins with a fruit forward smooth drinking appeal. Rich darker elements of black cherry and plum linger long on the palate.

Photos courtesy of Crowded House, Catalina Sounds, & Nanny Goat Vineyards.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored tasting.

Finding Sanctuary Just a Half Block from Times Square

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Take a right from Times Square’s Father Duffy Square down West 47th Street for a short stroll and to your right, an early 20th century hotel completely transformed into a 4-star boutique hotel rises 9 stories above the surrounding chaos.  It’s clear that father and son co-founders Hank and Brandon Freid took their 2010 creation of Sanctuary Hotel NYC, a luxury Buddhist-themed retreat, as a challenge and ultimate statement of creating the impossible here.

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Although its original architectural facade remains,  modern touches were added to Sanctuary’s street level exterior like piped-in music, glass awnings, and opaque glass block windows. The oasis of tranquility concept is readily apparent from the moment you open their intricately massive carved wooden front doors and enter their opulently decorated lobby.

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An illuminated glass floor guides you to the lavish lobby lounge featuring a glowing fireplace set with tiger skin travertine tiles. Warm yellow leather cushions grace the couches while deep orange leather wall panels surround the elevator bank and guestroom hallways. Custom made furnishings showcasing a deep brown and cognac color palette are enlivened by surrounding design elements like lavish terrazzo tile with brown glass chips, honey onyx, and shade of brass.

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The ambiance in many ways replicates the allure and comfort of a private living room with inviting nooks for lingering and touching base. A full bar to the front serves up specialty cocktails and tapas while a museum-like display of Buddhist statuettes cluster in the corridor leading to guestroom floors.  Pictures that are also Buddhist themed grace walls throughout the property.

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The Zen-like vibe continues upon checking into rooms richly appointed with plush beds dressed in high thread count European linens framed with chocolate leather headboards. Crystal chandeliers, glass-walled showers, marble counter tops, and leather-printed wall tiles round out the decor while quarried marble window ledges and cream leather curtains maximize brightness and light when you want it.  Decor accents of smoked glass, honey onyx, and brushed brass add a chic vibrancy.

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But like any world class property, an extraordinary setting must be matched by stellar service to make it a true 5-star experience. Sanctuary Hotel NYC ensures this crucial formula adds up with their S.T.A.R.™ Program (Service Tailored to Any Request). Inspired by warm hospitality synonymous with European boutique hotels of the same caliber, S.T.A.R. elevates attentiveness beyond concierge to having a personal assistant that not only helps plan your daily itinerary but arranges for things like warm cookies and hot tea or gluten-free breakfast delivered to your room. S.T.A.R. staff also stand ready as personal shoppers helping you pick an outfit for that no-holds barred night out.

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Enter the card coded elevator to Sanctuary’s 9th floor and you’ve arrived at Haven Rooftop Restaurant & Lounge. Boasting unparalleled views of the Manhattan skyline, Haven’s year-round rooftop transforms to accommodate the seasons with a fully retractable roof and year-round furnishings, Chef Madison Belem’s French inspired menu along with an innovative and ever changing cocktail menu created by award-winning mixologist Isaac Grillo, make the Rooftop a destination for residents and tourists alike. Indulge in dishes like Mussels & Frites and Filet Mignon accompanied by craft libations like Safe Haven or a Cloudtini as the bright lights of Times Square pulse through the surrounding skyscrapers in the background. Plush seating areas & intimate cabanas complete this perfect escape from the ordinary.

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Accessible via Sanctuary’s lobby and a separate street entrance, Tender Bar & Grill offers an upscale sports bar experience complete with elevated pub-style menu and multiple flat panel TVs broadcasting the latest sports games. You can truly blur the lines here between game and date night dining on Black Cod or Rigatoni Bolognese and world-class sushi while hoisting a cold one and keeping track of the score.

Coverage made possible by participating in a partially sponsored visit.  Photos courtesy of Sanctuary NYC and nycgovparks.org


Top Chefs Helm Dinner in the Sky at Casa Velas in Puerto Vallarta

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DinnerintheSkyLaunch

It all started in Belgium when culinary communications agency Hakuna Matata partnered with The Fun Group, an amusement park ride installer to offer the first Dinner in the Sky in 2006. Right now you can experience elevated dining in sunny Puerto Vallarta on the lush grounds of Casa Velas Resort. You get a highly choreographed culinary extravaganza incorporating a music soundtrack and various announcements over an on board sound system as you’re lifted 150 wow-inducing feet into the air with 22 fellow diners.

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Similar in many ways to a luxe amusement park ride, your Dinner in the Sky experience begins with a complimentary cocktail hour where drinks like the Sky High mixed with Skyy vodka, lemon soda, grapefruit juice, and Blue Curacao are planted in your hand. You’ll also be signing a waiver holding staff harmless should anything go wrong. But don’t worry, this is a mere formality thanks to their stringent safety guidelines exceeding the highest European standards.

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Next you’ll walk down a grand walkway lit on either side with tiki torches to the launch platform. Getting strapped in takes a while and when it’s finally time to make your gradual yet steady ascent by crane, it’s entirely possible that if you’re buried in your smart phone, you won’t notice your departure from earth since there’s absolutely no swaying or bounce as you’re rising upward.

 

Strapped into a sports car-like bucket seat, chairs are anchored to the table and swivel to the left and right but only until each arm hits the table’s edge. You are quite confined by the body harness and chair design which sometimes makes it difficult to eat without lifting the plate to your mouth. But your chair does have a thrilling feature that’s perhaps best enjoyed after downing some tequila shots liberally served along with the wine pairings between courses. Pull back a lever to recline, stretch back, and star gaze if it’s night time or catch some rather harrowing vertical or upside down views during daylight.

Your 1 hour experience includes a 3 course gourmet dinner featuring a rotating lineup of dishes like lobster lasagna and beef fillet served atop polenta and truffles prepared by top chefs, including Mikel Alonso and Bruno Oteiza, disciples of Spanish superstar Juan Arzak, Xavi Pérez Stone, former “Best Chef in Mexico” and winner of the “Iron Chef 2014”, and Mexican TV personality Chef Yolanda Yanar. Everything is prepared in advance, but the elevated dining space is equipped with a six-tray oven and two electric stove tops for final prepping. Spectacular views of surrounding Banderas Bay and the Sierra Madre Mountains in the distance compliment the gustatory extravaganza.

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Casa Velas Resort is just one of many locations around the globe offering Dinner in the Sky. Since 2006, installations have criss-crossed the skies of 45 countries from Europe to Australia, Japan, India, Dubaï, South-Africa, Brazil, United States, Mexico, Canada, and China. Although Dinner in the Sky will only be available at Casa Velas until February 28th, future dates are already scheduled for 2018-19 so stay tuned for your next opportunity!

Photos courtesy of Casa Velas & Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored visit.

Velas Vallarta Resort Infuses Puerto Vallarta’s Essence Into Your Stay

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While the Mexican Riviera boasts many stellar lodging options, Velas Vallarta Resort has the distinct advantage of offering you an intriguing balance of  sybaritic retreat conveniences with plenty of opportunities for genuine cultural immersion.

With Playa El Salado right out front, downtown only a 10 minute ride away, 18-hole Marina Vallarta Golf Course within walking distance, and the airport literally 5 minutes away, Velas Vallarta is in quite the enviable location for travelers visiting Puerto Vallarta Mexico.

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Three 8-story hacienda-style guest residences stand on 10 oceanfront acres surrounding a lushly planted courtyard featuring a boulder waterfall cascading into one of 2 pools interconnected by a lazy river. Each one of Velas Vallarta’s 345 suites have private terraces decorated with flower plantings and Bougainvillea vines overlooking this scene with the emerald waters of Banderas Bay as a backdrop.

Spacious suites begin at 386 square feet stocked with L’Occitane bath products, fully-equipped kitchens with snacks, drinks, and mini-bar essentials all restocked daily or more frequently if you wish as part of their all inclusive rate.

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A defining characteristic throughout your stay is the genuine hospitality by all staff from maintenance up to Guest Experience Manager Donald Willis who frequently walks the property addressing many guests on a first name basis. It’s this and touches like 100% inclusive 24-hour room service, a community of roving peacocks, and a deep commitment to the environment that are made possible by being locally owned and operated by Eduardo Vela.

Sustainability

It just so happens that the upper reaches of beach fronting Velas Vallarta are prime sea turtle nesting territory. Like many similar areas across the globe, these turtle eggs and hatchlings are under continuous threat of being destroyed and eaten. Since they are also an endangered species, they need all the help they can get for survival. Each year scientists collaborate with volunteers and hotel guests to find and protect turtle eggs. An on site nursery keeps eggs safe until they hatch and you’re able to release them at night into the surf. If your passion to preserve runs deeper, you can also participate in conservation training and nesting patrol.

Joining an onsite Eco Tour gives you a behind the scenes look at how Velas Vallarta has earned its EarthCheck Gold certification and membership in TripAdvisor’s Green Leaders program. You’ll see how the General Manager’s private pool serves as a refuge for orphaned wildlife and where 750 lbs of organic food waste per day is collected and sent to a local hog farmer. Explore their recycling facility, solar panels that heat the property’s showers & pool water, and learn how their composting initiative has cut their landscaping pesticide use in half.

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Dining

Whether you crave fresh seafood and ceviche, prime steak or an authentic gourmet Mexican buffet, local flavors as well as exotic fusions from around the globe are served in all 3 onsite restaurants. La Ribera Steakhouse represents the pinnacle with oceanfront terrace dining while mid day swimsuit and flip flops call for the ease of swim up Aqua Bar for craft margaritas and made-to-order burgers. All dishes are scratch made utilizing the region’s seasonal bounty.

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Beyond traditional sit down dining, Velas Vallarta features specialty culinary events like a poolside Taco Tasting Experience every Saturday where you can sample and savor a variety of authentic Mexican tacos prepared and narrated by executive chef Jorge Sierra in conjunction with a Signature Hot Sauce Tasting that includes explanations on which foods pair best with particular sauces and how heat quotient differ between chili varieties.

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But when it comes to chilling on your terrace or you’re just back from night ’til dawn dancing at a spot like Mandala, your ace in the hole is their 24-hour Suite Service that’s also 100% covered under their all inclusive arrangement.

Activities

Velas Vallarta makes it easy to experience the area’s rich local culture through on site nightly live entertainment including traditional dances and musicians but also provides convenient access to explore off property cultural highlights like the vibrant street performers and artists on mile-long Malecón boardwalk. You’re connected to authentic city tours as well as shopping, tequila, and culinary excursions like street-by-street crawls through the Pitillal neighborhood led by Vallarta Food Tours.

Painting figures prominently at Velas Vallarta as well as at sister property Casa Velas across the street with painting and wine (or tequilla) tastings outside on the patio led by Leon de la Vega. As part of several wedding packages offered by Antología by Fornari, festivities are captured live with paint and a canvas instead of selfie sticks. Couples choose their preferred canvas shape and size, between oil or acrylic, and a particular artist specializing in a style of their choice ranging from impressionist to expressionist, abstract to surrealist.

A rejuvenating spa featuring seaside treatment cabins, yoga on the jetty, and piñata & jewelry making are just some of the other activities taking you way beyond beach volleyball and the DJ-led pool party milieu.

Photos courtesy of Velas Vallarta & Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored visit.

Exploring Germany’s Rheingau Region

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All within reach by an hour train ride west of Frankfurt along the Rhine River, Germany’s Rheingau is a patchwork of historic villages, vibrant cities, and the country’s most distinctive Reisling wine-growing region.

Wiesbaden

Gateway city Wiesbaden serves as cultural and transportation hub to the Rheingau.  Even if you’re exploring by foot, the 200 mile Rheinsteig hiking trail head begins next to the Baroque palace of Schloss Biebrich on the banks of the Rhine taking you past numerous vineyards, palaces, castles, and monasteries along its way to Bonn. While this approach will of course be more arduous, your intrepid spirit will be rewarded by a richer more personal connection to the landscape and people around you.  Grape picking season in autumn gives you more in depth exposure to vintners when they open their doors for tastings and festivals.

Wiesbaden’s most readily apparent panache is its attractive mix of old world charm and vigor of a modern metropolis. Elegant villa districts, a magnificent State Theatre, extensive parks like ‘Bowling Green’ with cascade fountains and walking paths situated right next to the Kurhaus and Casino reflect a time honored grandeur. Inaugurated by Kaiser Wilhelm II when it opened in 1907, Kurhaus’s marble floored grand pillared events & concert venue contains 12 halls and salons featuring one of Europe’s oldest and most architecturally ornate casinos.

You’ll soon discover that Wiesbaden has a rich spa culture dating back to the Romans that wasn’t popularized until the mid-1800’s when elites like Russian Tzar Nicholas II and Empress Elisabeth, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, and Johannes Brahms began soaking in the therapeutic effects of the city’s 26 thermal springs. Today spas like Thermalbad Aukammtal and the Kaiser-Friedrich-Therme as well as more private under-the-radar places like Das Badhaus Spa, which originally opened in 1486 and now part of Radisson Blu Schwarzer Bock Hotel, attract thousands from across the globe.

During summer, Opelbad Bath, a 15,000 square metre Bauhaus style spa on Wiesbaden’s Neroberg Mountain, offers spectacular views of the Rhine Valley and Taunus foothills in the distance. The most scenic and expedient way to reach the top of Neroberg in just under 4 minutes is aboard the Nerobergbahn Mountain Train, Germany’s oldest hydro-powered cable car dating back to 1888. A Russian-Byzantine style Orthodox Church crowned with 5 golden onion domes is another can’t-miss landmark seemingly placed there out of a fairy tale. Still used for church services to this day, it originally opened in 1855 as a tomb for the mortal remains of Duke Adolph’s wife Grand Duchess Elisabeth Michailovna and her child.

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When you’re back in town craving a sweet treat, Café Maldaner preserves the traditional coffee house ambiance that originated here in 1859. Plush sofas and chairs overlooking the wide variety of artfully prepared treats on display behind the glass of their impressive cake counter make you want to linger and get social. If you’re in town Wednesday or Saturday, an open air market on Dern’sches Gelände square features a wide array of fresh produce and hand crafted specialties.

Rüdesheim

A historic village featuring medieval architecture built into a hillside with the Drosselgasse serving as the main thoroughfare flanking the river on one side with boutique shopping, eateries, wine taverns, and beer gardens on the other connecting to narrow lanes trailing off to vineyards rising up in the distance, Rudesheim offers plenty to explore within its compact street grid.

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Near the train station you can catch a cable car/chairlift taking you up to Niederwald Monument overlooking the Rhine Valley.  This supremely ornate 125 foot tall hilltop memorial built between 1877 and 1883 commemorates Germany’s unification after the Franco-Prussian War. Passing right behind the monument and into the forest, the renowned Rheinsteig hiking trail continues onward towards Hotel & Restaurant Jagdschloss Niederwald.

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Be sure not to miss Seigfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet located in what used to be a 15th century noble manor. Boasting over 1000 square feet of exhibit space showcasing more than 350 mechanical instruments dating from the 18th- 20th century, you can see and listen to self playing devices ranging from delicate music boxes to self-playing pianos and organs. The museum is also home to the world’s largest Doll Automaton calliope ever built containing 27 automatic dolls, each one playing a different instrument. A workshop filled with tools for repairing essential components like cardboard music cards, piano rolls, and musical box plates occupies one corner of the museum’s second floor.

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The engineering genius behind these devices is all the more amazing considering they were created during an era of limited technology.  Just keep in mind that guided tours need to be arranged in advance.

Staying at hotel Altdeutsche Weinstube means you are only a block away from the Drosselgasse with a wide selection of rooms to pick from run by the 5th generation Ehrhard-Malgouyres family.  Wrought-iron ornamentations and leaded stained glass windows invite you to gather in their onsite “Weinstube” where a French chef de cuisine creates regional and French delicacies with in season market fresh ingredients like Ingelheimer asparagus during summer, chanterelles and different pumpkin dishes in autumn as well as roast duck and goose during winter.  Wines on their list feature vintages from their family owned Carl Ehrhard wine growing estate.

Another dining option for authentic German favorites and biodynamic wines is right up the street at Weingut Jacob Christ.  Chef Dagmar and her winemaker husband Rainier Hass combine assets conjuring seasonal creations from local ingredients like the greens in their salads to pork in their bratwurst pate, sausages, brook trout, and Hessian goat and sheep cheese specialties. Their vegan organic wine selection draws from off-the-radar Reingau grapes reflecting subtleties of the region’s ever changing climate. Rainier believes that climate change is now impacting flavor profiles much more than other terrior attributes like soil and vine age.

Bingen

Accessible by ferry across the river from Rudesheim, Bingen is situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Nahe Rivers. This once medieval and now UNESCO World Heritage village is perched high on a ridge surrounded by many architectural treasures like the Mouse Tower, a former toll station overlooking the Rhine, and the historic home of St Hildegard of Bingen, a famous 12th-century Abbess of mythical proportions who advised emperors and bishops. Bingen’s Museum on the River located in a re-purposed factory hall dating back to 1898 dedicates more than 300 square meters of exhibit space to the saint featuring models of long obliterated monasteries, paintings, original documents, and audio accounts that put the visionary world of Hildegard into perspective.

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While strolling along Bingen’s pedestrian riverfront walkway, you’re sure to see a well preserved 500+ year old freight crane on display that also lights up at night. Right next door is German steakhouse Zollamt occupying a former customs office built in 1906. The menu here specializes in “shock heated” Kobe and other prime cut steaks sizzled in a uniquely designed grill/oven combo searing meat up to 1400F via an intense combination of  convection and open fire. A tasty dark outer crust with an extremely tender and juicy interior make it to your plate every time. Weather permitting, their spacious outdoor terrace overlooks Castle Ehrenfels, Niederwald Monument, and Rüdesheim across the river.

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Since vineyards span the hillsides across the Rhine as far as the eye can see, you may assume that wine making isn’t as prevalent in Bingen but look to the backside of Elisenhohe heights particularly from St. Rochuskapelle Church and you’ll see vines stretching to the horizon. Hemmes Winery is a hidden gem right in the village making craft wines in a re-purposed school house. Award wining winemaker Frank Hemmes and his family also bring sustainability to their production using geothermal heat.

Eltville

This small village becomes a destination when staying at Park Hotel Tillmanns, a luxurious family-run hotel in a stately 18th-century French country home that was completely renovated and refurbished in 1995-1997. Within walking distance to a miles-long pedestrian pathway along the Rhine and just around the corner from the Eltville train station, airy sun filled rooms, some with private roof terraces or park/river views, make it feel like your home away from home rather than just a place to hang your hat.

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An extensive breakfast buffet is included in their spacious downstairs sun porch, which also has a casual self-service bar in the corner for some evening tippling. A private terrace outside beckons when weather permits. Owner Benjamin Gillert parlays his 10 year culinary background along with his stints as sommelier and event designer into lovingly running the property.  His wife Anna Schneider along with the rest of his family are fully integrated into every aspect of running the hotel making sure no detail goes unnoticed.

A quick cab ride from Park Hotel Tillmanns, Weinhaus Zum Krug, an inn with accompanying farm-to-table restaurant features a menu built on straightforward dishes made from the fresh local bounty. Third generation Chef Josef Laufer operates under the motto of “the diversity of the simple is our demand and goal”.  He keeps it all very personal juggling roles as chef, host and sommelier with his guests. Dishes like Wispertal trout and fried potato goat cheese dumplings or venison chops are rooted in traditional cookery while enhanced with new approaches toward presentation and flavoring.

Must-See Wineries

Reisling is the dominant grape in the Rheingau ranging from extra dry to sweet pairing just as well with traditional German fare as sushi and other international dishes. Although Germany’s smallest wine region, it’s also the most compact with nearly 8,000 acres of vineyards packed close beside villages making exploration as easy as wandering up lanes until they turn into gravel roads leading past miles of vines. However, keep in mind that you’ll need a car or bike to expediently visit the following vineyards:

Schloss Johannisberg – Vineyards have surrounded the winery castle here over the last 1,200+ years making it the world’s first Riesling estate. Originally founded under the Benedictine order, Johannisberg’s longstanding winemaking heritage is now on display in Bibliotheca Subterranea, a locked vault within the winery’s cellar catacombs serving as a famed treasure chamber of  centuries-old wine rarities. Grapes from their vineyards totaling nearly 200 acres are still hand picked ensuring they’re harvested at precisely the right degree of ripeness giving credence to their motto of “quality is determined in the vineyard, not during vinification”.

Schloss Vollrads – Art, culture, and of course extensive wine cellars complement each other in a big way on this estate.  A tower house, their premier landmark building built in the 14th century, surrounded by a pond that can only be reached by a stone bridge.  A 2-winged manor house was built on the grounds in 1684 where the Greiffenclau family lived up until 1997. Riesling remains the only grape variety used at the winery but showcases the entire range of designations from Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese to Eiswein. The estate offers guided tours with tastings, a wine bar, shop, and hosts various special events with a regular concert stage for the Rheingau Musik Festival.

Kloster Eberbach – Once a Cistercian abbey, Eberbach Monastery remains to this day a meticulously preserved monument to classic European Middle Age architecture. The monastery‘s growing wine making prestige over the last 9 centuries solidified the community’s wealth. Grape varieties include Riesling, but also branch out to Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Their wine estate boasts over 1 million vines on the steepest slopes in the Rheingau with 150 acres planted on over a 35% pitch.  Their onsite restaurant as well as several lodging options make lingering a bit longer all the more attractive.

Henkell Headquarters of world renowned sparkling wine producer Henkell is just outside downtown Weisbaden. Open for tours, it boasts a grand marble hall upon entering with a rotating collection of paintings on the walls.  Further exploration reveals their extensive production and bottling operation and vaunted cellars several floors below.  Founded by Adam Henkell in 1832, they still to this day successfully combine the artful composition of French Cuvée with the precision consistency of German craftsmanship that’s now exported to more than 100 countries.

Coverage made possible by participating in a partially sponsored visit.  Photos and video courtesy of Steve Mirsky, Altdeutsche Weinstube, and Park Hotel Tillmanns

Hilton Showcases Brooklyn’s Rich History

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Recently opened at the corner of Smith and Schermerhorn Streets straddling downtown and the Boerum Hill neighborhood, Hilton Brooklyn is the first full-service hotel of its caliber to open here.  Situated in a former 2-block-long rope factory owned by industrialist Peter Schermerhorn supplying Brooklyn’s shipbuilding industry during the 19th century, Hilton Brooklyn occupies the first 6 floors of what is now a 19-story commercial, retail and condominium mixed-use redevelopment.

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The interior’s decor and architectural design reflects the building and neighborhood’s historic significance with exposed brick, vintage neighborhood photographs, carpeting patterned with the image of a massive rope running the full length of corridors, murals of period neighborhood maps lining the corridor walls, and imprints of the factory interior on custom-designed wallpaper in all guest rooms.

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196 standard rooms and suites ranging from 315 to over 650 square feet are each furnished with a Signature Serenity Bed, an ergonomically designed workstation, strong WiFi, and plenty of outlets essential for recharging the pursuits of tourists and road warriors alike. Spa-grade baths feature rainfall showers while others include deep soaking tubs. Business-class perks continue with a round-the-clock 24-hour fitness center, concierge, and Grab-and-Go pantry.

Helmed by celebrated local chef Rob Newton, onsite restaurant and bar Black Walnut presents a menu inspired by influences as diverse as Asian cookery, Deep South recipes, and Newton’s own background as native Arkansan in addition to his years of global travel. Dishes like Pan Roasted Halibut with Forbidden Black Rice, Piquillo Pepper & Chickpea Panisse along with drinks like the Wilma Jean mixed with Rittenhouse Rye, Koval Honey Liqueur, Fennel and Lemon & Bitters give you a flavorful crosscut of Newton’s culinary exposure.

Hilton Brooklyn’s Knowledge Package includes passes to the Brooklyn Historical Society and Brooklyn Museum where you’ll gain some additional insights into the history behind the borough’s rise to pre-eminence. Once farmland named after the Boerums, a founding colonial-era Dutch family, Boerum Hill rapidly developed as the Industrial Revolution blossomed. Thanks to National Register of Historic Places designation in 1983, the neighborhood’s characteristic mid-19th century 3-story Greek Revival and Italianate brownstones are now preserved for antiquity.

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The Historical Society’s extensive exhibits document Brooklyn’s role in Black America’s ongoing struggle for equality and examine the lives of the Mohawk tribal members, who undaunted by extreme heights, lived here from early- to mid-20th century building Manhattan’s iconic skyscrapers. The Brooklyn Museum reveals an extensive collection of Egyptian artifacts, European paintings, and African art reflecting providing glimpses into the origins of many immigrants who settled here.

Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored visit.  Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky and nycgo.com

The Leopard at des Artistes Digs Deep Into Italy’s Culinary Heritage

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Part of the landmark Hotel des Artistes on the Upper West Side just across the street from Central Park on West 67th Street, The Leopard at des Artistes features museum quality Howard Chandler Christy wall murals from the early 1930s showcasing various nymphs depicted in scenes modeled after Elise Ford.

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Owned and operated by husband-and-wife-team Gianfranco Sorrentino and Paula Bolla-Sorrentino, along with Executive Chef Vito Gnazzo, The Leopard at des Artistes curates a menu inspired by mid-1800s Kingdom of Two Sicilies as well as the culinary traditions of Campania, Basilicata, Calabria, Apulia, and Sardinia.  All dishes have a baseline of fresh ingredients built with deft preparation steeped in near instinctual kitchen prowess.

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Born and raised on the Amalfi Coast in Salerno, Chef Vito Gnazzo launched his culinary career in Milan at 3-star Michelin Antica Osteria del Ponte. After immigrating to the United States in 1981, Gnazzo worked as head chef at Il Rex in California before moving to New York in 1993 joining restaurant trio Il Gattopardo, Mozzarella & Vino, and The Leopard at des Artistes as culinary artist in-residence where he’s been ever since.

Chef Gnazzo strikes a balance between his longstanding culinary expertise and letting dishes speak for themselves with simple ingredients like homemade pasta, seasonal vegetables, farmhouse cheeses, and fresh caught seafood.

Signature plates include Pan-Seared Duck Breast Porchetta with fennel pollen, cipollini with aged balsamic vinegar, pickled raisins and vegetable caponata; Halibut In Brodetto with baby artichoke and fingerling potatoes; and Maltagliati with wild game and porcini mushroom ragú. The dessert menu boasts specials like Traditional Zabaione with fresh mixed berries and Nutella Chocolate Mousse served on hazelnut crunch and banana gelato.

At first glance, The Leopard at des Artistes menu may appear fragmented between regions but a closer examination of Italy’s culinary history reveals a series of interdependent local cuisines rather than what are often considered authentic regional dishes. This happened because most Italians before WWI rarely left their villages with the exception of nobility and clergy resulting in town-by-town variations in preparation and recipes.

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Italy’s geographic location in the middle of the Mediterranean also infused dishes with a mélange of foreign influences like French cookery in Liguria, Piemonte, and the Valle D’Aosta while Austro-Hungarians settled in the Veneto, Trentino Alto Adige, and Friuli Venezia Giulia. Milanese risottos and arrosto cuts of meat notably reflect Spain’s occupation of the city for 150 years up until the War of the Spanish Succession. The British introduced Classic bistecca alla Fiorentina and zuppa Inglese, English steak, and English trifle to Tuscany while Jews fleeing the Inquisition used what they could to create dishes like caponata and fennel gratin that are still popular to this day.

Photos courtesy of Leopard des Arts & Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored visit.

Element Boston Seaport Adds New Dimension of Vibrancy to South Boston

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Boston’s Seaport District is so close to iconic downtown Boston attractions like Faneuil Hall and Boston Commons yet off the beaten path enough to not be on the radar of tourists.  It takes a little extra effort to walk over the Seaport Boulevard Bridge and head to the piers packed with boat tours and restaurants. Located in South Boston or Southie as locals affectionately refer to it, the Seaport District has long been a trade port for Atlantic seafood trawlers.  It’s no accident that Legal Seafood Harborside along with its more edgy sister restaurant Legal Test Kitchen are literally across the street from each other.  Further down Seaport Boulevard adjacent to Harpoon Brewery, local institution Yankee Lobster Company has been serving fresh seafood staples like stuffed haddock and lobster rolls since 1951.  During most weekends, the restaurant can be clearly identified by the line snaking out the door.

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8 blocks away from the waterfront up D Street, newly opened Element Boston Seaport, is surrounded by blocks that were up until recently occupied by distribution centers, municipal bus garages, and industrial use. But with the Boston Convention and Exhibition Center right across the street as a catalyst, all this is changing with newly constructed infill residential development, and new hotels like Element and next door sister property Aloft transforming the neighborhood into a 24×7 community.

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Checking into Element Boston Seaport may not get you bellhops, room service, or valet, but their 510 rooms and suites are the closest you can get to having your very own Boston apartment. Longer stays are amply accommodated with a pull-out couch in the living area, a large desk outfitted with charging ports, a bedroom with a king-sized Heavenly bed, wall-mounted flat screen TVs, expandable table, and full closets in both living area and kitchen.

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Ensuite kitchens purposely include everything you need to get started on your favorite recipes like a stove top, full-sized refrigerator, coffee maker, dishwasher, plates, salt and pepper, pans, and utensils. Blue Apron and Peapod stand at the ready for more substantial ingredients since there isn’t yet a supermarket in the neighborhood. For those times when you’re too busy and tired to cook for yourself, XYZ Lounge across the parking lot at Aloft offers light bites and signature cocktails that can conveniently be charged to your room.

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Floor-to-ceiling plate glass windows comprise the outer front and back walls of the expansive lobby allowing you to look back from the front desk onto the outdoor patio featuring a self-service BBQ grill during warmer months.  Their indoor saline pool and adjacent exercise gym embrace the same concept making it entirely possible to see clear across the pool, through the lobby, and into the front parking lot while using the gym.  The lobby’s minimalist interior decor dominated by greens, browns, and whites along with modern, low-profile furnishings including plenty of living room- like seating, become especially vivid on sunny days.

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Part of Starwood’s eco-conscious brand, Element embodies a commitment to the environment and balanced living. Built with recycled materials, water filters on the kitchen sinks eliminating the need for plastic bottled water, shampoo and conditioner pumps in the showers that cut down on packaging, and priority parking for fuel efficient cars, the hotel’s mission also blends nicely with the redevelopment projects sprouting up around it.

A complimentary RISE breakfast buffet daily features smoothies, homemade granola, egg white omelets, fresh fruit, gourmet coffee, and fresh baked pastries. A self-serve 24/7 RESTORE Gourmet Pantry situated behind the front desk, for which all guests receive a $20 credit, is stocked with healthy grab-and-go options like baked coconut and apple chips, daily pre-made sandwiches, and Annie’s microwavable meals. Each day ends with a complimentary RELAX evening reception offering appetizers and complimentary wine and beer encouraging you to unwind and connect informally with other guests.

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Element’s BIKES to BORROW gives you complimentary access to bikes accompanied with a local trail map for exploring the neighborhood. One excellent destination is Castle Island Park featuring Fort Independence overlooking the ocean just 2.5 completely flat miles away.

Castle Island Park, Boston

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky, Element Boston Seaport, & Wikimedia commons.  Coverage made possible by participating in a partially sponsored visit.

 

Baron’s Cove’s Casual Luxury Reconnects with Sag Harbor

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Although only a 15 minute drive north of the Hamptons, Baron’s Cove in Sag Harbor feels miles away from the full court press of high society’s playground of the rich and famous.

Sag Harbor’s rich heritage as a whaling port and later in manufacturing, most visible in the elaborate brick Watchcase Factory now converted into loft-style town homes, shape the village’s vibrant walk able downtown and reflect the community surrounding it.

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Overlooking the tranquil harbor yet just a 5 minute walk from the village’s bustling shops and restaurants, Baron’s Cove has been a fixture with a storied past for generations. Luminaries ranging from Jackson Pollock to John Steinbeck, Truman Capote and Kurt Vonnegut regularly met at the inn’s on site restaurant in the 1950s – 1960s swapping stories and planning for the Old Whaler’s Festival, a precursor to today’s Harbor Fest. Over time, the inn’s two motel-style Bay and Meadow properties became rundown and dated. The restaurant was eventually razed to make way for condominiums that are now next door.

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Baron’s Cove’s coveted location made its recent renaissance inevitable. Only the original layouts of the 67 motel-style rooms were preserved reflecting their origins as simple seaside retreats. The rest was torn down to the framing and completely refurbished with nautically inspired furnishings featuring vintage whaling artwork sourced from nearby antique stores, crisp white linens, fresh carpeting, and powder-blue bedside lamps. Marble vanities and sleek door less showers grace the spacious subway tile–lined bathrooms.

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Outside, entryways to each room also got makeovers elevating them from the typical privacy-starved motel exterior. First-floor rooms have individual fenced-in patios outfitted with furniture and small garden areas while on the second floor, partitions create private seating areas recessed from the common area walkways.

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Although historic in appearance, Baron’s Cove’s nautically inspired reception, bar and lounge area with restaurant upstairs boasting near panoramic views are brand new. Architectural flairs like window shutters, multi-pane French doors, and a white wraparound front porch lined with wooden rocking chairs greet you upon arrival.

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The sitting area and bar to your right gives off an English-style drawing room aura furnished with wing-back and tufted leather chairs, fireplace against one wall and a piano to the side. Reclaimed timbers and brass Ralph Lauren fixtures accompany artifacts on display like vintage photos, sketches, and whale bones thanks to Baron’s Cove’s partnership with the Sag Harbor Whaling & Historic Museum.

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French doors open onto an outdoor patio/porch with another fireplace and Adirondack chairs where live bands play every night during summer.

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Climb a steep wooden staircase leading up to the bright high-ceilinged open beamed restaurant where Executive Chef Matty Boudreau prepares classic fare including surf and turf, expertly grilled burgers, succulent day boat caught fish, and buttery lobster rolls.

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Boudreau’s background as a BBQ-master and member of National award winning Salty Rinse BBQ team is on full display especially during summertime oyster and Berkshire pig roasts, and seafood festivals. Hand crafted cocktails like Eternal Sunshine utilize herbs from their onsite garden during season.

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Breakfasts are equally enticing with fresh brewed coffee and espresso based drinks, buttermilk pancakes, brioche French toast, and Farm Stand Daily Omelets.  BaronsCoveBreakfastPancakes

Remember their special offers when booking like Travels with Charley which include a stay in one of their dog-friendly Village Garden Rooms, a Baron’s Cove monogrammed dog bed & water bowl, disposable waste bags, Baron’s Cove Frisbee, gourmet dog treats, a map outlining suggested walking routes, and a copy of John Steinbeck’s Travels with Charley.

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Beach walking at Haven’s Beach and Barcelona Neck in the Linda Gronlund Memorial Nature Preserve is respectively only a 5 & 10 minute drive away exuding a wide open end-of-the-world feeling similar to Montauk. But for a more direct hassle free approach, Baron’s Cove offers complimentary shuttle service and passes to all Southampton beaches. That comes with beach chairs, umbrellas, plush towels, and your very own picnic basket customized by you the night before. Families enjoy a beach bag filled with goodies like a Frisbee, beach ball, and sandcastle kit.

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Simply luxuriating on site is equally celebrated with a heated saltwater pool, tennis court, fitness studio, and spa services. But just in case you change your mind, a concierge awaits in the wings to arrange your itinerary.

Photos courtesy of Baron’s Cove & Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a partially sponsored visit.


The Baker House 1650: Your Quintessential Historic Hamptons Retreat

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When staying in the Hamptons, you simply can’t do better than a manor house consistently ranked by Condé Nast Johansens as “Most Excellent Inn of the Americas”.  Nestled in East Hampton Village, The Baker House 1650 puts you within a quick stroll of shops and restaurants, coveted nearby access to East Hampton Main & Georgica beaches, and a place to play the role of robber baron for the duration of your stay.

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Describing The Baker House 1650 as a boutique property is an understatement. Don’t even think of staying here if you merely need a place to hang your hat and rush off with a packed itinerary. Situated behind Main Street’s prestigious hedges, the property’s main entrance opens into a wide open sunny reception area connected to an expansive parlor with a grand piano to one side and a large fireplace surrounded by plush sofas and chairs inviting you to sink in for some conversation or with something to read from their extensive library of books and magazines.

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A well-stocked self serve bar stands at the ready for relaxation inducing cocktail essentials, a well-rounded fine wine selection by the glass or bottle, single malt scotch, small-batch bourbon, and select cognacs. Step outside onto the back patio overlooking an in ground Infinity pool surrounded by meticulously tended grounds perfect for cooling off between beach and shopping jaunts.

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Complimentary for guests, The Baker House 1650’s basement level spa is outfitted with an Endless swimming pool, Jacuzzi soaking tub, sauna, steam shower, and even a wine refrigerator filled with Champagne and other sparkling wines. Although built in 2000 and thoroughly modern, the ambiance feels organic and original to the house. You can reserve it for private use, personally schedule spa treatments, or head down whenever the spirit moves you.

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All of the property’s 7 guest rooms including a separate Carriage House feature baths with soaking or spa tubs, mini bars, Frette linens and towels, L’Occitane bath amenities, flat screen TVs, and Bose stereos. In the main house, a magnificent Colonial Revival staircase leads to one-of-a-kind abodes like the Huntting Room with exposed hand-hewn beams and massive wood-burning fireplace facing a queen wooden frame bed with large windows overlooking the village green. The Gardiner Room is light and airy with a view of the gardens decorated in pale yellow William Morris papers and fabrics featuring a luxurious king bed, wood-burning fireplace and a two-person spa tub.

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The Baker Carriage House situated on its own private, exquisitely landscaped acre just behind the main house is more recently restored featuring larger suites retaining many original details of its original agrarian usage like barn doors, wrought iron spiral staircase, hay doors, and slate & wooden floors. Bedrooms are furnished with wooden sleigh beds, writing desks, plush seating, and antique rugs.

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You get access to your own private pool surrounded by a blue stone patio lined with Kingsley-Bate teak loungers as well as plenty of other seating options nestled along the vine-covered garden walls underneath a 200 year-old wisteria tree.

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Waking up here each morning is a special occasion with a bountiful selection of homemade fresh baked goods, fruit, and local farm-fresh eggs used in their signature eggs benedict and fluffy crepes.  Plenty of healthy options include fresh squeezed juices, granolas, and premium yogurts.

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The Baker House 1650’s 17th Century Cotswold-inspired architecture along with an interior exuding a homey yet majestic aura make it appear to be a permanent fixture in time but a broader evolution is revealed upon closer historical examination. First constructed in 1648 by sea captain Daniel Howe and then sold 2 years later to one of East Hampton’s original founders, Thomas Baker, the manor house became Baker’s Tavern serving as the town meeting hall and community center.

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Fast forward to 1899 when Shakespearean devotee James Harper Poor purchased the property naming it “As You Like It.” In 1911, coinciding with a golden age of Anglophilia, Poor hired prominent turn-of-the-century English Arts and Crafts Movement inspired architect Joseph Greenleaf Thorp for a major Elizabethan style renovation that stands to this day. The original shingled house was wrapped in stucco transforming the American-style Colonial into an expansive English manor of sprawling rooms and British style refinements. J. Harper Poor’s daughter Mildred had her wedding here in 1915 and the resulting invitation and newspaper announcement hang in the lobby to this day.

Photos courtesy of Baker House 1650.  Coverage made possible by participating in a partially sponsored visit.

Nyack New York Gets Times Square Inspired Boutique Hotel

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Before The Time Nyack opened on the site of a former factory that for a time became artist studios and jam space for local bands, the Village of Nyack didn’t have any 4-5 star lodging options. When plans were announced to build a hotel based on the same lifestyle model used for The Time’s first namesake property in Times Square, locals were skeptical that a Manhattan formula along with requisite price tag would be viable in a small historic town known for its homegrown boutique shopping and vibrant restaurant scene mercifully devoid of cookie cutter national chains.

Now nearly a year after its grand opening, The Time Nyack has exceeded expectations transforming doubt into enthusiasm not only for rooms that fill a luxury niche but also for the more than 4,000 square feet of flexible onsite event space perfect for weddings, Bar Mitzvahs, and conferences. All 133 loft-style rooms pay homage to the structure and design of the factory that once occupied this site. Brick walls, exposed duct work, ceilings ranging between 12 and 20 feet high, large industrial-style windows that flood living spaces in sunlight, and 4th floor suites with private terraces overlooking the Hudson River create a carefree and creative ambiance.

You also get perks like access to the rooftop pool & bar as well as BV’s Grill & Lounge, an outpost of the famed Bobby Vann’s Steakhouse empire on the ground floor. Renowned for first-class service, dining here begins in the Grill’s Lounge & Bar with one of their specialty cocktails like a tasty Purple Rain. Then head over to the dining room that quickly expands with additional outdoor seating during warmer weather via overhead roller doors leading to the patio and outside bar.

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BV’s openers like a Steakhouse Wedge salad served with a dreamy blue cheese dressing or oysters on the half shell provide the perfect segue to main courses like 28-day dry-aged NY Strip Sirloin, Horseradish Crusted Salmon, and Colorado Lamp Chops paired with Hilltop Farm organic sides of brussels sprouts, corn off the cob, creamed spinach, and mashed potatoes. House made desserts like their Chocolate Mousse Truffle Cake and Tiramisu offer the perfect finish.

“Having grown up in Nyack, I learned the importance of quality local ingredients at a very young age,” says Executive Chef Joseph Walsh. “It’s a real honor for me, both personally and professionally, to be able to bring classic New York City steakhouse cuisine to my hometown, but with a Hudson Valley twist.”

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While the craft beer and cocktail list pays tribute to the restaurant’s New York roots, their wine list draws from a wide array of cutting-edge winemakers as well as classic producers from around the globe. In the late afternoon, rooftop bar Top of the Time beckons you skyward for some sampling.

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Gallery space in common areas and room walls honor the property’s artistic past as well as the area’s vibrant art community displaying bold, process-oriented work by emerging and established artists curated by Philippe Hoerle-Guggenheim. During summer, the lounge and pool deck hosts pool parties with DJs and Live Nation music performances.

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Cultivating a symbiotic relationship with the community’s vibrancy, The Time Nyack offers packages like the Taste of Nyack which includes reservations at local favorites like Strawberry Place and the Art Café.  Just a 10 minute walk down Main St. puts you within walking distance of nearly 20 restaurants, the Edward Hopper House, 5 street fairs per year, historic house tours, monthly First Friday Arts events, and the second largest Halloween parade in the tri-state area.

Or join the roughly 7,000 cyclists rolling through town during any given week or schedule in-season access to yachting, kayaking, rowing and windsurfing via Time Nyack’s concierge.

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky & The Time Nyack.  Coverage made possible by participating in a partially sponsored visit.

The Story Behind New Hampshire’s Adair Country Inn

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New Hampshire is synonymous with classic country inns each reflecting their distinct personalities shaped by topography, property history, and innkeepers. Adair Country Inn & Restaurant, situated within the borders of White Mountain National Park in Bethlehem, is a perfect example surrounded by its very own 200+ acres of meadow and forest land interlaced with a network of old carriage roads and hiking trails.

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The magnificent 3-story Georgian Revival home you see today was built in 1927 by attorney Frank Hogan as a wedding present to his daughter Dorothy Adair. This was a monumental achievement for somebody who grew up in poverty during the late 19th century not able to receive formal education past eighth grade. Yet Frank earned his law degree and formed Hogan & Hartson, one of Washington, D.C.’s major law firms at the time gaining acclaim successfully defending Edward Doheny in a Teapot Dome case during the 1920s. Doheny gave Hogan $1 million cash above his agreed upon fee as appreciation for keeping him out of prison. George directly spent it on constructing Adair giving birth to his signature quote of “the ideal client is a rich man when he’s scared”.

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Sitting on a grassy knoll overlooking the Presidential Mountain Range on the horizon, the house and back patio is also perched above Frederick Law Olmsted designed grounds and gardens flanking a tennis court below providing the perfect respite during warmer months. Adair’s massive granite block foundation carved from a local quarry is prominently on display in the slate floored basement recreation room & lounge outfitted with a large fireplace ideal for warming up after a long day of skiing. A 1929 Oliver Briggs Boston billiards table sits to one side while a small bar reminiscent of a 1920’s speakeasy, and a 42-inch flat-screen TV perfect for curling up with a movie from the inn’s large collection occupies the other half.

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Vintage books and photos are on display throughout the property and Dorothy’s hats remain well preserved to this day lining the second floor stairwell landing bookcases giving you the feeling that the Adairs’ stepped out for a moment and will be returning shortly. Each room is named after a local mountain and furnished with period antiques, spacious bathrooms, and gas fireplaces in most. In addition to a generous afternoon tea that’s served in the elegant living room, the inn offers packages enhancing particular aspects of your stay like picnic baskets packed to your specs for a day of hiking and Rafting Getaways.

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Even before this 9-room house opened in 1992 as an inn quickly achieving 4 Diamond status, Adair hosted many distinguished guests including presidential hopefuls, Supreme Court justices, governors, senators and actress Helen Hayes.

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The property’s most recent innkeepers, husband and wife team Cindy Foster and Tom LaPointe, capitalize on their combined 35 year experience in hospitality & customer service to keep the inn running smoothly with a personal touch exuding an extra refined yet unpretentious ambiance.

“Personal attention and one-on-one interactions with our guests are what we truly value here at Adair”, says Cindy. “In our otherwise increasingly impersonal world, Tom and I do everything we can to ensure all guests feel as though they are staying with close friends or family.”

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Although they have staff helping them out, Cindy and Tom are integral to the day-to-day experience. Cindy is sure to greet you in the morning at breakfast to make sure everything on your day’s itinerary is set while in the evening you’ll be sure to sample her bar tending skills whipping up cocktails to order. Tom’s talent in the kitchen was put to immediate use when they took over Adair developing the inn’s signature pop-over recipe.

Photos courtesy of Adair Inn & Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored visit.

Frankfurt’s Underrated Food and Culture Scene

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It isn’t often that Frankfurt tops the list of Germany’s must-visit cities due to its often misunderstood reputation as a staid financial services center. One of Frankfurt’s most visible distinctions contributing to stereotypes like this is its impressive skyline most dramatically viewed from MaiN ToWer‘s rooftop observation platform. While World War II bombings obliterated downtown’s original architectural treasures and footprint, they also gave the city a clean slate for reconstruction largely funded through the Marshall Plan.

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Thankfully, Frankfurt’s historic old town and other surrounding neighborhoods’ narrow cobblestone lanes leading to small squares with fountains surrounded by ornately trimmed houses were spared the same fate. Domrömer Quarter is in fact currently experiencing a renaissance with 15 original reconstructions and 20 new buildings soon opening between Emperors’ Cathedral (“Dom”) and Frankfurt’s time-honored town hall (“römer”) anchored by the Stadthaus am Markt.

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The city’s lush green riverfront promenade and an extensive array of parks & gardens like Palmengarten are perfect for cultural immersion particularly during summer. With 13 museums overlooking the River Main, Frankfurt’s museum district houses extensive collections, many of them in grand, time-honored villas surrounded by lush gardens, cozy cafés, and top-rated eateries like Fujiwara and Parthenon.

With residents originating from more than 190 nations, Frankfurt’s international status shapes the diversity of its menus ranging from Persian to Tex-Mex but for something uniquely Frankfurt, the apple wine ritual can’t be missed. While “Epelwoi pubs” are prevalent in the Rittergasse, Paradiesgasse, and Klappergasse neighborhoods, Sachsenhausen is the epicenter for pouring apple wine (Stöffche) from a traditional stoneware jug (Bembel) into glasses (Geripptes). Typically served on wooden tables flanked by long benches, you’ll find yourself also ordering beef & green sauce (Grüne Soße), a creamy concoction made from 7 regional herbs and reportedly a favorite of celebrated poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. Additional snacks like hand cheese (Handkäs) and pretzels are also sold by roving merchants who make their rounds to the various pubs.

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Getting food on the run is a snap here with indoor market Kleinmarkthalle, a culinary paradise open daily except Sundays featuring nearly 156 stalls selling a wide range of fresh foods and produce. Bauernmarkt Konstablerwache is Frankfurt’s largest outdoor farmers’ market. Held every Thursday and Saturday, it serves as a popular meeting place for locals not only doing their weekly shopping but sampling the latest regional wine vintages or sweet treats like Frankfurt Crown Cake (Bethmännchen), a famous local treat made of almonds and marzipan.

Where to Stay

Recently opened 4-star Innside by Melia Frankfurt Ostend (Eastend) was built from the ground up right across from the European Central Bank with the business traveler in mind but is also situated and filled with amenities leisure travelers appreciate. A street car stop right outside the front door whisks you to the city center within minutes or for more further afield trips, the Ostend central railway station is just several blocks away.

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The hotel offers 168 bright sunlit rooms and suites on 6 levels outfitted with wood floors and dining/living room areas perfect a quiet respite or enjoying a meal on your own. Rooms are outfitted with individually controlled air conditioning, motorized blinds, free soft drink mini bars, and open bathroom concepts with glass-enclosed tile showers.

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Decor dominated by monochrome white, black, and silver while indirect lighting creates eye-catching violet accents defining a modern vibe while a sauna, fitness area, and unconventional meeting break out space put quick productive brainstorming sessions within reach any time of the day.

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Onsite Stock Avenue 81, a hybrid blend of restaurant, hotel bar and outside terrace, provides a trendy open atmosphere of floor to ceiling windows overlooking street activity outside. The menu includes international crossover cuisine with a local touch along with small plates like Stuffed Champignons or Chorizo de Pamplona Praline perfect for pairing with their regional wine list and craft cocktails. A large video screen on the back wall along with a sound system transforms the space into a popular night spot on select evenings.

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Best Way to Start Exploring

Guided city walks like those offered by Frankfurt City Walks are a great way to get an overview of the city before forging ahead on your own. The most hassle-free way to get around in town as well as the nearby Rhine-Main region is hopping on their super efficient RMV network of trains and buses. Daily & weekly passes give you an unlimited 1 ticket, 1 rate access to 1 timetable applicable for all routes.


Photos courtesy of Frankfurt Tourism & Innside by Melia Frankfurt

What Makes Chardonnay a Chablis?

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Le vignoble de Chablis

The word Chablis is said to derive from 2 Celtic words: “cab” (house) and “leya” (near the wood).  The village and surrounding wine region of Chablis is situated near Champagne France in Bourgogne’s northern extremity between Paris and Beaune. Over 13,300 acres packed with vineyards comprising 4 appellations flourish in gray marl and bands of limestone rich in Exogyra virgula (small comma-shaped oyster) fossils dating back 150 million years. The soil combined with a semi-continental climate far from maritime influences challenges vines with harsh winters, unpredictable springs, and hot summers yielding highly complimentary balances of sugar and acidity in the grapes.

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It’s easy to keep the varietal of Chablis wines straight since they’re all made from the Chardonnay grape. The common adage that “Chablis is Chardonnay, but not every Chardonnay is Chablis” springs from the purity and wide range of distinct aromatic variations in Chablis that can’t be derived from Chardonnay grapes grown anywhere else.

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The actual Village of Chablis dates back to the Roman era. Later during the 9th century, Charles the Bald commissioned a small church built at the mouth of Vaucharmes valley dedicating it to Saint Marie in commemoration of his victory in the battle of Fontenoy. Charles later came to the rescue in A.C. 867 providing refuge for Benedictine monks fleeing Vikings advancing up the Loire. They soon established vineyards supporting their mission but ultimately, the Cistercian monks built Chablis into the wine making region you see today.

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Fast forward to the 1500s when royal tables in Paris regularly showcased Chablis thanks to the River Yonne trade route long before railways were established. Over the ensuing centuries, setbacks like phylloxera and World War I decimating the vineyard workforce challenged Chablis’ longstanding wine making heritage. But vineyards rose to the occasion reinvigorating blighted vines by grafting phylloxera resistant root stock while the loss of workers in this case thankfully coincided with mechanization. Winemakers also learned to mitigate the hazard of spring frosts killing newly formed buds with chaufferettes (heaters) and aspersion, a technique of spraying water on vines which freezes on contact creating a protective ice cocoon.

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Many vineyards today are multi-generational keeping traditional wine making approaches alive while building on the knowledge and technological advancements acquired by formal training and exposure abroad.

Domaine Drouhin Vaudon – Chablis 2015

Situated in a historic 18th Century watermill straddling the Serein River, Drouhin Domaine headquarters overlooks their 95 acre estate where Chardonnay vines have been planted for centuries. Current owner Joseph Drouhin’s father Robert was considered a pioneer in the 1960s for revitalizing Chablis vineyards when they neared complete abandonment. He implemented Double Guyot “Vallée de la Marne” pruning to resist frost and decrease yield. Grapes are pressed very slowly capturing the widest range of fruit characteristics while aging takes place in vats 7-8 months resulting in an easy to drink dry wine full of nuances.

Fresh aromas reminiscent of lemon and grapefruit buttressed by dry fruity mineral notes give it a long and pleasant finish. A sparkling chalkiness successfully cuts through grilled meats while a biting thirst quenching kick to the back of the throat is made possible by an astringency that reveals juxtaposing characteristics like tart citrus and hints of candied fruit.

Domaine Denis Race – 2015 Petit Chablis

This 4th generation estate nestled in the heart of Chablis is planted with vineyard parcels ranging in age from 2 to 65 years totaling 44 acres. After formal training in 2005, the owners’ second daughter Claire has been working here and plans to take over the estate when the time is right. Pneumatically pressed grapes distinctly exhibit well structured honeyed citrus on the nose with astringent lemon drop limestone on the palate. A slight effervescence pervades the mouth feel with a lively heightened minerality strong enough to pair elegantly with sharp cheeses. Even Holds its own after coffee and chocolate.

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Domaine Vocoret Et Fils – 2013 Chablis Premier Cru

On one of the largest domaines with over 100 acres of vines in Chablis, Vocorets have made wines for 3 generations still matured in large oak foudres. Michel is now responsible for managing the vineyards while brother Claude is in charge of the wine making.

Controlled alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel yields well-balanced structure and clean filtered chalkiness on the mouthfeel stabilizing on the palate with sharp lemon zest and stone fruit notes. Piercing thirst quenching attributes of tart green apple and fresh greens reluctantly yield to fruitier complexities with hints of ripe peach, cherry, and pear along with a crisp melange of spices defined by whatever dish it’s paired with.

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Vignoble Dampt Freres Les Fourneaux – 2014 Chablis Premier Cru

Vignoble Dampt Freres represents a collaborative approach to wine making with the domaine encompassing 150 parcels in the 3 valleys of Yonne, Serein, and Armancon.

Vintners here have a long heritage of taking a holistic approach to grape growing embracing environmentally-friendly viticulture in a big way. Cultivating a healthy relationship between vine, soil, climate, and environment means plants become naturally resistant to pests and diseases while grapes ripen at a more even pace. Instead of weed killers, pesticides, or anti-botrytis, natural treatments like nettle and valerian root are used as natural pest deterrents.LesFourneaux_2014

This genuine approach in the vineyards sets the stage for an exceptional tasting experience. You get a crystalline hue in the glass with a hefty mouth feel uncharacteristic for a white. Yeast pokes through solid lemon with hints of pear and floral notes. Clean and crisp high minerality is tempered with luscious fruit sugars providing a yin and yang duality of sharp freshness with rich fruit nectars enriched by aging. Cuts through and complements fatty grilled lamb and other meats with aplomb.

Photos courtesy of Wines of Chablis, Burgundy Tourism, & wineries featured herein.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored tasting.

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